Cuff and method of making the same



July 8, 1930.

w. 1. BEATTIE C-UFF AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed May 25, 1.929 2 Sheets-Sheet l wvewroz Aff VWM,

wlw L@ July 8, 1g30. w. J. BEATTIE 1,769,937

CUFF AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed May 25, 1929 2 sheetssheet 2 @www Patented July 8, 1930 WALTEN J. BEeTTrE,. o'F coHoEs, NEW YORK, AssIGNoR To @HE BEATTIE MANU- FAC'ri-IRINGv oo., oF coHoEs; NEW YORK, A.` coRPoRATioNor NEW YORK corn ND iirriron on iirAiiNe T'HEsii/In pplieation 55,

c iiif 4 of j simple construction which vmay be mailufac'tured and assembled with the garinentby aminimum Vnumber of operations.

further'ob'ject ofthe invention to pro- Vide a cuff which becaiise ofits construction manual operatins, vthe construction being o f the character which will permit the use of autematicfolding andturning machinery to a greater ei'ztent than has heretofore been possible. Y

Another vobject of the invention is to :pro- Avide a cuff construction which readily the reception of piping or other edge fiiriishingmeans in the manufaeture Vof 2O thecn, and which alsov may be readily attached to a yshirt sleeve;

A vcharacteristic feat re ofthe inyentionis the utilizationofa single blank of material for the outer faces vor plies. The blank is p folded or pleated transyersely andthe portlonsof the'same at opposite sides of the pleat are arranged in facing relation with the vpleat',` and also one 0r incre s'ti'ifening plies yif de siredlintervening, the pleat forming an open pocket adapted to receive theend of thesleeve or other portion ofthe garment to which the cuff or the like 'is to be attached. i

Prefer ably, the edges off. `'the blank are inturned between the facing plies, the margins O f which should coincide so that stitching adjacent the margins may secure Ato's'gethe-r the two plies. In order that the ends of the pocket which receive lthe 'sleeve maybe closed the folded edge of one ply extends over the pleat or fold', thereby closing the pocket at its ends..`

Before sewing together the two plies, a Asuitable stiffening` ply may be interposed, and if desired7 it may be fitted beneath the foldedover edge of one of the plies and beneaththe pleat. Moreover, a finishing edge for the cuE, 'such as piping, maybe interposed between lth' e free edges before the 'saine are tifchedifogehe. Y f

The -foregoirfg 'and other objects and fea'- 1929. 'serial No. 365,958.

tures of tliewiniiention vwill become clearer as the 'deseription proceeds in connection with pre'ferredembodiments disclosed Vin the accompanying drawings, wherein Yl1` iggi ire l isa plan yiew of avblfank, the edges ofwhich hay'e been suitably folded or int'rned. r

Figure 2 yiewon'theline 2- 42 of Fig. 1. Figure 3 `i s 'a plan yiew 'of the blank during intermediate stage of 'the pleat forming Cfperatioii.

` 4 is a sectional View on the line 4-4 Figure 0flf`i g`? .V

Figure 5 isa fra' mentar-y perspective Vier;y showing foldedgblank with the edge offene ply 'about 'to bey folded oyer the Apleat to close one ad of te plee. l

Fig'nre 6 is a pla-i1 y'iew'of the cu'if ready Vto be attached to ya garment.

j Fig're 7 is a section en the line7-7 Yof Fig. 6. H Q

Figure 8 is a 'View similar to Fig. 7, "showing tle sleeye inserted vinthe pocket'form'ed by the 'eilt'. Y VFigure `9 isy a perspectiyie showing the cii'fl assembled with 'the garment.

Figure 10 is a fra entary perspective showing .one 'end of the pleat or poeket more clearly`. Figure 11 is a plan View of a modified form proyided with piping as edge 'finish'.

Figure '121s seaman view an the une 12g-1Q of Fig. 11@4 1 Figiire 13 isa plan fvie'w'of a foldloyercu, otherwise of substantially, the 'same 'construction ast'he f orm illif's'trat'ed in Fi'ge `and 9.

Figure is a' sectional yiew on the line 14e-14 of Fig. I3, and v Figure y1'5 is Aa"Sectional yiew of a fold-over cu having a stiii'e'ne' ply in the inner portiol instead of ithe f0ld-V`er pltin Of the cu Referring to Ythe 'drawings 4 for a more detailed description, 10 indicates blank or piece of material, the edges of Kwhich may be inturned or folded 'over one face of the blank'. At the "corners 12, the folded vedges may be crimped to fprovide thedesir'ed curve', and astiiferlrply y13 eiztend beneath one of the tr'afsyerse folded edges 14 vjr'ld the end folds In order to form a pocket for receiving` the end of a sleeve or the like, the blank is pleated atsubstantially .its transverse center, and to .form sucha suitable pleat, itlmay first be folded to the position illustrated in Fig. 4 to provide the centerple'at'fold 19 and one pleat-edge fold 20 which will'constitute one edge of an outer cuif ply21. The other portion 22ofvtheblank at the opposite side of the pleat isthen folded over upon the ply V21 in `face, toface relation therewith to` provide a secondi-ply with .thepleat intervening orf-disposed between the two plies.

As will be observed, the ',stiffening ply 13 (Fig. 7) extends not only beneath the infolded Aedge `14.0fthe ply 22, but also `beneaththe pleatand thus is held in position. The pleat described provides an` Vopen pocket for the reception of a sleeve or the like, `,which may, be. stitched within the pocket, and in order to close the ends of the,

pocket, a folded edge 15 of one of the plies 21,

22 at eachend` of thepleatmay be raised, as.' indicated in Fig. 5, to receive the-pleat, and

thereafter, the edge may be folded over the pleat.(Fig. 10) vthereby closingV the ends of the pocket or pleat. Topermt this operaf tion, itis desirable to form inthe blanks, cuts 24, (Fig. l) which extend a short distance inwardly from each end of the blank.

i 'To completethe cuff, itis simply necessary to stitch together the free marginal edges of the two plies,.as by `stitching 25, and as will benoted (Fig. 6) the kstitching terminatesat points 2 5 so that the pleat or pocket is not sewed ibefore insertion of the sleeve. 't

In order to assemble the completed cuff r with asleeve S,the end 28 (Fig. 8)..ofthe latter may be` inserted into the pocket and secured therein by a transversek line of'stitching 29 extending through the pleat, the end ofthe-sleeve and through the two plies of the cuff., This construction v`,provides a cuff which may be readily applied toa garment simply by inserting the sleeve into the pleat .or pocket. The free edge folds 20, 23 of the pleatjpr'ovide iinishedfcuif edges 4at opposite side/sof the sleeve,"an d itis, therefore, un-

necessary forthe operator when stitching the sleeve to the cuff to fold inwardly and secure` the edges of the cuff plies. `The center fold 19 ofthe pleat at the bottom ofthe pocket,

may abut `the end of the garment s leeve,and thus by` limiting the extent Vlofyinserton "of the sleeve, insuresan evenpositioning of the sleeve in the pocket. This is an `important feature ,ofI the invention, sinceJ it .isl not necessary'for thel operator `,to exercise care in form insertion of the sleeve with little or no care on the part of the operator o f the sew ing machine which applies the stitching 29. Referring to Figs. 1l and 12, the cuf shown corresponds to that of Fig. 6, except that'piping 30, which comprises merely a strip of material folded upon itself, has its free edges inserted between the marginal edges of the plies 21', 22 and is secured by the marginal stitching 31, which unites the plies. This cuff also includes a stiening ply 32, although, of course, the same may be dispensed with, as in the case vof theculf of Fig. `6, which does'not require the stifl'ening ply l In Figs. 13, 14and 15, there is illustrated a cuff of the fold-over type, but otherwise of substantially lthe same construction as the cuff of Fig. 6. This cuif comprises a blank having a pleat with a center fold 33 and free edge folds 34, 35, the pleat forming a pocket 36,Qinto which a sleeve or other part of a garment (not shown) may be inserted. And as will be understood, the blank is provided with the cuts 24 and theclosed pocket ends illustrated in Figs. 5 and 10.

At opposite sides of the pocket, the twol a stiliening ply 40 may be inserted beneath one folded-over edge and may have its free edge 40 terminating slightly short of the fold line 41fof the cufl (Fig. 14) this stiifening ply need not be included, as illustrated in Fig. 15.. A stiiening ply 42.1nay have one edge inserted between the facing plyr37 of the culi and the pleat, and may have its free edge 42 terminate adjacent the fold line 41 of thecufl". The stiffening ply may` be extended throughout the cuff, shouldrit be desirable to reinforce both portions of the same. y It will be understood that Figs..14 and 15 illustrate slightly diierent forms, in that in Fig. 14 the stiifening ply is limited to the fold-over portion of the cuff, whereas in Fig. 15, the stiffener ply -is limited to the inner portion of the cuff which has therein the pocket 36. In the latter form, the transverse line of stitching (not shown) which will be applied when the sleeve is inserted in the pocket 36, will be extended through the stiffener, as in the form of Fig. 8,- to secure lthe stiflener in position.

Where reference is made in tion or fclaims to a shirt,lit is to be understoodthat I intend to coverV any article of apparel to which ia cuifor the likeis applied;

the speciicaication or claims, I intend to cover a collar or collar band as well.

Obviously, the invention is not limited to the precise details illustrated, and numerous modifications may be made without departing from the invention, the essential features of which are set forth in the following claims.

I claim:

l. A shirt cuff comprising a piece o-f material transversely pleated intermediate its ends and having its portions on opposite sides of the pleat folded over the pleat and upon one another to form cuff plies, whereby the pleat provides a transversely extending open pocket between the plies, and stitching securing together the plies, the edges of said plies being folded inwardly between the same with the folded edge of a ply Vat each end of the pleat extending over the open end of the pleat whereby to close the pocket at its ends. A

2. A shirt cud comprising a blank having its free edges folded over the face of the blank, said blank being transversely pleated, the portions of the blank at opposite sides of the pleat being arranged face to face and forming facing plies with the pleat disposed therebetween and providing a marginal pocket, the pleat at each end having an inturned edge of one ply overlying the same and closing the end of the pocket, and stitching securing together the plies adjacent their marginal edges.

3. A shirt cuff comprising a blank having its free edges folded over the face of the blank, said blank being transversely pleated, the portions of the blank at opposite sides of the pleat being arranged face to face and forming substantially coincindent facing plies with the pleat disposed therebetween and providing a marginal pocket, the pleat at each end having an inturned edge of one ply overlying the same and closing the end Y of the pocket, and stitching securing together the plies adjacent their marginal edges.

4. A shirt cuff comprising a blank having itsfree edges folded over the face of the blank, said blank being transversely pleated,

the portions of the blank at opposite sides of I the pleat being arranged face to face and forming facing plies with the pleat disposed therebetween and providing a marginal pocket, the pleat at each end having an inturned edge of one ply overlying the same and closing the end of the pocket, stitching securing together the plies adjacent their marginal edges, and the end of a sleeve secured in said pocket.

5. The improved method in the art of making cuffs which consists in folding over the marginal edges of a blank, transversely pleating the blank, disposing the portions of the same at opposite sides of the pleat in face to face relation with the pleat intervening,

folding over each end of the pleat an inturned edge of one of the plies whereby to close the ends of the pleat, and stitching together the facing plies.

6. The improved method in the art of makmy hand.

WALTER J. BEATTIE. 

